Ultimate Guide: Choosing and applying rhinestones for shoes

Whether you're a professional shoe designer, a fashion student with a passion for footwear, or a complete beginner who just wants to bling up a pair of wedding heels, it helps to know the basics before you start. Adding flatback crystals to shoes is a huge trend in the fashion industry, and just as big in the DIY and upcycling world. We all love to add a bit of theatre to our look.

There are a myriad of rhinestone embellishments on the market, so how do you choose the right ones for you and your kicks? This guide covers everything: which crystals to pick, which glue to use on which material, what size works best, roughly how many you'll need, and how to apply them so they stay put.

Which shoes can you add rhinestones to?

Any style of shoe can be embellished.

As you can see from the examples above, taken from Crystalled by Jane, you can attach rhinestones to just about any kind of shoe you can think of. Popular choices include:

• Wedding and prom heels

• Branded trainers such as Nike or Jimmy Choo

• Children's shoes, which make a lovely personalised gift

• Boots, sandals and flip flops

• Crocs, which people really are blinging up

You might want to embellish certain areas to make them stand out, or go the whole hog and cover the entire shoe. Popular placements include:

• Full coverage for maximum sparkle

• The heel on its own

• Straps for a subtle touch

• The toe cap as a focal point

• The underside of a high heel, a trend borrowed from designer footwear

That last one only works on shoes with a heel high enough that the underside never touches the ground. It's a small area, so it's quick to do, and it's a great option if you want a hint of sparkle rather than full bling.

A huge trend recently has been crystal Converse trainers, which are a brilliant way to sparkle in comfort on your wedding day.

A note on trainers and flexible materials

Trainers, canvas shoes and anything with a rubber sole flex constantly as you walk. That movement is exactly what causes rhinestones to pop off when the wrong adhesive has been used, because a rigid glue simply cracks under the strain.

If you're working on trainers, canvas or any shoe that bends a lot, the flexibility of your glue matters just as much as its strength. More on that below.

Which rhinestones are best for shoes?

We would always recommend flatback non hotfix rhinestones.

Non hotfix simply means there's no heat involved. Instead of being activated with an iron or applicator wand, these crystals are glued into place. The flat back gives the glue a good surface to grip.

Why not hotfix?

Hotfix crystals have a heat-activated glue backing that needs a high temperature to melt and bond. That heat can easily damage leather, synthetic uppers, glued soles and rubber, so it isn't worth the risk on footwear. Stick with non hotfix and a suitable adhesive.

For brands, you have a few excellent options:

• Preciosa - We're an authorised Preciosa Silver Partner, and their range is enormous, with multiple shades within each colour. Professional-grade performance and a favourite with costumiers.

• Zodiac - Our own brand, with brilliant sparkle, a durable foil backing and a scratch-proof coating. Zodiac crystals have earned over 1,500 five-star reviews for quality and performance, and they're a cost-effective choice for full-coverage projects where you need thousands of stones.

• Swarovski - The luxury option if that's what your project calls for.

One thing worth understanding: the foil backing on a flatback crystal does two jobs. It's what your glue bonds to, and it reflects light back up through the stone. That's where the sparkle comes from, so it's worth keeping the backing clean and undamaged before you apply.

What size rhinestones should you use on shoes?

SS16 (4mm) is the most popular all-round size for shoes. It's a medium crystal, easy to work with, and it covers ground quickly without looking bulky.

Here's how the sizes compare:

Most experienced embellishers work with three sizes on a single project:

1. A main fill size for the bulk of the coverage

2. One size smaller for gaps and narrow areas such as a pointed toe or a stiletto heel

3. One size larger for accents and focal points

Larger sizes are great for bigger shoes such as boots, where they stand out and make a statement.

Sometimes all your shoe needs is a dainty touch of sparkle, and a smaller size such as SS10 (3mm) is perfect for that.

A popular method is to apply rhinestones in a range of different sizes, creating what's known as a 'rockery' effect. This creates depth and texture, and reflects far more light than stones that are all the same size, so you get much more sparkle for your effort.

How many rhinestones will you need?

This is one of the most common questions we get, and nobody wants to run out halfway through a project or overspend by thousands of stones.

Here's a straightforward way to estimate:

1. Measure the area you're covering in centimetres, length by width, to get the surface area in square centimetres.

2. Work out roughly how many stones of your chosen size fit into one square centimetre.

3. Multiply, then double it for a pair.

4. Add 10 to 15 percent for losses, placement adjustments and future repairs.

One practical tip: buy a few extra stones in each colour and size at the same time as your main order. Crystal batches can vary very slightly, so having spares from the same batch means any future repairs will match perfectly.

Not sure what you need? Just drop us a message and our friendly team will happily talk it through with you.

What is the best glue for rhinestones on shoes?

The right glue depends on two things: what your shoe is made from, and how much it flexes when you wear it.

Gemiflex, made for footwear

Gemiflex by Gluemasters is a glue created specifically for artists working with rhinestones, and we're the UK's only stockist. It's our top recommendation for shoes for one simple reason: it dries flexibly.

That means the finished shoe can bend, move and take the stress of everyday wear without your crystals cracking off. It solves the trainer problem completely.

What makes it work:

• Flexible when dry, so it's ideal for shoes, boots, trainers and stretch fabrics

• Sets in 10 to 30 seconds with an industrial-strength bond

• Bonds to most surfaces including leather, vinyl, fabric, rubber, canvas, metal, plastic, wood and glass

• One-part glue, so application is quick and simple

Our Gemiflex Bedazzling Glue Kit includes the glue, a glue bag, a how-to guide, an acetone wipe, three gauges of precision metal tips, ten plastic application tips, and 50 free Zodiac flatback crystals in a mix of sizes and colours so you can experiment before committing.

Two practical notes. Gemiflex has a strong smell, so work in a well ventilated area. And the syringe tips are single use, so it's best to complete your project in as few sittings as possible. We'd also recommend a wax pencil for picking up and placing your stones.

H3: The alternatives

E6000+ - is a great choice for tougher materials such as rubber and leather. It's durable, crystal clear and waterproof, with a thick gel consistency, so apply it with a precision applicator syringe.

Gem Tac - suits softer, porous fabrics such as cotton, canvas and suede. It's a general craft glue that forms a strong bond with the foil backing of the rhinestone and dries crystal clear. It's runnier than E6000+ and a little easier to work with.

Here's a quick comparison:

If you're unsure which glue suits your project, get in touch and we'll point you in the right direction.

Choosing your colours

The colour choice is completely up to you, but there's one rule worth knowing: use a colour similar to the fabric of the shoe.

This is because there will always be tiny gaps between the rhinestones where the shoe material shows through. If the crystal and the shoe are very different colours, those gaps become obvious. Match them closely and the finish looks seamless.

Some reliable choices:

• Clear and AB - are popular for bridal, prom and party shoes. AB stands for Aurora Borealis, an iridescent coating that gives crystals a rainbow shimmer. These work beautifully on white trainers and pale sandals too.

• Jet black - is a classy choice for dark shoes such as heels, brogues or black trainers.

Preciosa have a huge range of colours, including several shades of each colour, so you really are spoilt for choice.

Not sure a colour will match? We offer free samples and a colour matching service, so you can test crystals against your actual shoes before committing to a large order. It's well worth doing on a project this size.

How to put rhinestones on shoes, step by step

Embellishing shoes is much the same as embellishing anything else. There are just more curves to work around, so it takes a little longer.

What you'll need

• Flatback non hotfix rhinestones in your chosen sizes

• Your chosen glue

• A pick up tool or wax pencil

• An applicator syringe or precision tip

• Sandpaper, if you're working on patent leather

• Rubbing alcohol for cleaning the surface

Prepare your shoes

Preparation makes a real difference to how well your crystals hold.

Start by cleaning the area with rubbing alcohol to remove oils, dirt and any factory finishes that could stop the glue bonding properly. Let it dry fully.

Top Tip: For patent leather shoes, give the surface a gentle rub with sandpaper first. This gives the glue something to adhere to.

If you're only embellishing part of the shoe, mask off the areas you want to keep glue-free.

Apply the rhinestones

1. Squeeze around 2cm of glue into the syringe and screw on the tip.

2. Starting at the edge of the fabric, or the seam if you're only embellishing part of the shoe, apply small dots of glue in a line, around 10 or 12 at first. Allow a few seconds for the glue to get tacky.

3. Using the pick up tool, place each rhinestone onto a glue dot, making sure it sits flush to the surface with no gaps in between.

4. When you come to the second row, position each rhinestone in the gap between the two above it. This is called the honeycomb method, and it keeps everything sitting neatly with minimal gaps.

5. Keep going with the same method until you've covered the whole area. As you reach the narrow parts, switch to your smaller crystals.

A word on timing: a full pair of shoes takes hours, not minutes. There's no shame in spreading it across several sittings, and most people do. Put something good in the background and enjoy the process.

Remember this is just a simple guide. There are many different application styles to choose from, and your method will change depending on the type of shoe you're embellishing.

Choosing your embellishing style

Once you know which crystals to use and you've chosen the right colour and glue, the next decision is how you want the finished shoes to look. Do you want ultimate sparkle and full coverage? Or something subtle and sophisticated? Here are a few popular designs, showcased by Crystalled by Jane:

• Pattern - Use contrasting colours to create striking patterns.

• Rainfall - Fade the rhinestones out gradually, from fuller coverage at one end to just a sprinkling of sparkle at the other.

• Colour block - Go bold with blocks of contrasting or complementary colours.

• Ombre - A timeless design. Fade one colour into another by interspersing the crystals.

• Mixed colours - The opposite of colour blocking. Take two contrasting colours and mix them completely for a fun, textured effect.

• Scattered - If you're on a budget, pushed for time or working with a limited number of rhinestones, scattering is a winner. You can still create the illusion of full coverage, as long as the stones are evenly distributed.

Making your rhinestones last

You've put the hours in, so it's worth protecting the result.

• Let the glue cure fully before wearing. Rushing this is the most common cause of stones coming loose early on.

• Keep them out of the washing machine. A spin cycle is far too rough for embellished footwear.

• Spot clean gently rather than soaking, using a soft damp cloth around the crystals.

• Store them carefully, away from direct heat and not crushed under other shoes.

• Fix any losses promptly. If a stone does come off, it's an easy repair with a dab of the same glue, which is exactly why those spare crystals are worth buying at the start.

FAQs

Can you use hotfix rhinestones on shoes?

No. Hotfix crystals need heat to activate the adhesive backing, and that heat can damage leather, synthetic uppers and glued soles. Always use flatback non hotfix rhinestones with a suitable glue instead.

What size rhinestones are best for shoes?

SS16 (4mm) is the most popular all-round size. Add smaller sizes such as SS10 (3mm) for narrow areas and gaps, and larger sizes for accents or bolder shoes such as boots and platforms.

How long does it take to rhinestone a pair of shoes?

Several hours for full coverage, often spread across more than one sitting. Smaller areas such as a toe cap or a heel take considerably less time.

Will rhinestones fall off my shoes?

Not if you use the right glue for the material, prepare the surface properly and let the glue cure fully before wearing. Flexible adhesives such as Gemiflex are particularly important on trainers and canvas, where the shoe bends with every step.

Can you rhinestone trainers?

Yes, and it's one of the most popular projects around. Trainers flex constantly, so a flexible adhesive is essential if you want the crystals to stay put.

Image credit: Crystalled by Jane