Hotfix vs Non Hotfix Rhinestones for Clothing

Are you looking to add some sparkle to your wardrobe? Whether you're learning how to put rhinestones on jeans, customising a plain t-shirt, or simply giving an old outfit a new lease of life, applying rhinestones to clothing is fantastic way to achieve a bespoke look. Rhinestones on fabric can transform any garment, whether it's a small area of embellishment such as a brand logo or name, or a large statement piece like a fully crystallised bikini.

Here's the short answer if you're in a hurry. The two main options are hotfix and non hotfix rhinestones, each with its own benefits depending on the fabric, design, and application method, and knowing the best glue for Swarovski crystals helps if you go down the non hotfix route. Hotfix rhinestones suit heat-resistant fabrics like cotton and denim, especially on larger designs. Non hotfix rhinestones suit delicate, sheer or stretchy fabrics and any design that needs precise placement.

This guide covers the difference between the two, which one suits your fabric, what size to choose, and how to make sure your sparkle stays put wash after wash.

Glass or acrylic? Start with the material

Before you think about application methods, think about what your rhinestones are actually made of. Glass and crystal rhinestones give you the highest sparkle and the best durability on clothing. Acrylic and resin alternatives are lighter and cheaper, but they're noticeably duller, and they scratch and cloud with wear.

The reason comes down to physics, glass refracts light properly, holds a precise cut, and takes a foil backing that bounces light back through the front of the stone. Acrylic simply cannot do the same job.

Every rhinestone we stock across Preciosa, Swarovski, Zodiac and Luna is glass, so wherever you land on budget, you're starting from the right material. Now, on to the bit most people are here for.

What are hotfix rhinestones?

Hotfix rhinestones have glue already built into the back of the stone. Applying heat melts that glue, which bonds the crystal to your fabric. The main advantage is that you don't need to buy any separate adhesive, because it's already on the stone.

Here's a handy way to tell them apart: look at the foil backing. Hotfix has a rough, usually darker texture, while non hotfix is smooth and shiny. Once you know, you'll spot the difference instantly.

You can apply them with a hotfix applicator wand, a heat press, or a household iron with the steam switched off. Our Preciosa hotfix flatbacks are a firm favourite for costume and dancewear work, and Preciosa's own application manuals give you the exact settings for each stone size.

Always test on a scrap of your fabric or an inside seam first, whichever method you're using. Two minutes of testing saves a ruined garment.

Pros of hotfix rhinestones

• Quick and easy to apply. Use an applicator tool for individual stones, or iron on a rhinestone transfer for a whole design at once.

• No separate glue needed. Saves money and means you won't get into a sticky mess.

• Creates a strong bond. Heat generally gives a stronger, longer-lasting bond than craft glue, and stands up well to washing.

• A cleaner finish. There's no glue seepage around the edge of the stone, which really shows on pale fabrics and close-up work.

• Faster on big designs. If you're crystallising a whole bodice or working through several garments, hotfix will save you hours.

Cons of hotfix rhinestones

• Not suitable for all fabrics. Anything with a high nylon or acetate content can scorch or melt.

• More expensive per stone. You're paying for the adhesive backing that's added during production.

• You need a tool. Factor the applicator into your budget, not just the crystals.

• Slower with mixed sizes. If your design uses several sizes, you'll need to wait for the wand to cool before swapping the tip, then wait again for it to heat back up.

• No second chances. Once a stone is down, it's down.

What are non hotfix rhinestones?

Non hotfix rhinestones have a smooth foiled back with no adhesive on it. You apply them using a separate glue, which is why they're also called glue on rhinestones.

Worth clearing up a common mix-up here: non hotfix, flatback and glue on rhinestones all describe the same thing. Flatback simply means the stone has a flat base rather than a pointed one, and both hotfix and non hotfix crystals are flatbacks. So if you've been comparing "hotfix vs flatback," you're really comparing hotfix flatbacks with non hotfix flatbacks.

For fabric, you want a permanent adhesive that stays flexible once dry, because garments move and a rigid glue will crack. Gem Tac is a brilliant all-rounder that dries crystal clear, and E6000+ is our go-to for dancewear because it's durable and flexible, which is exactly what you need with lots of movement. If you're unsure which to pick, our guide to glue breaks down what works on which surface.

Non hotfix is the most popular method for good reason. It's more cost-effective, you don't need to invest in a tool, and it works on almost anything. Our Preciosa non hotfix flatbacks are the premium choice, while Zodiac non hotfix flatbacks give you brilliant sparkle at a lower price point, and Luna rhinestones are ideal when you're covering a large area on a tight budget.

Pros of non hotfix rhinestones

• Far more versatile. Suitable for almost every fabric, including delicate and heat-sensitive ones.

• Adjustable placement. Glue doesn't set instantly, so you can nudge a stone into position or lift it off if you've made a mistake.

• Cheaper to get started. Lower cost per stone and no tool to buy.

• Better for intricate work. Fine detail and mixed sizes are much easier when you're not swapping wand tips.

• Sometimes the only option. For high nylon or acetate content fabrics, and most leathers, glue is your answer.

Cons of non hotfix rhinestones

• Slower to apply. You're doing the job twice, applying glue and then the stone.

• Can get messy. The bottle can spill and glue can seep out from under the edge. A precision applicator with a fine tip sorts this out.

• Needs drying time. Check your glue's instructions and let it cure fully before wearing or washing.

• The glue matters enormously. Use the wrong adhesive for your fabric and your stones will lift, no matter how carefully you applied them.

Don't forget sew on stones

There's a third option worth knowing about. Sew on stones have holes drilled through the glass so you can stitch them straight onto the fabric with thread.

They're the most secure method available, which is why they're so popular for bridal, ballroom and costume work where a stone absolutely cannot come off mid-performance. They also handle heavy or difficult fabrics that glue and heat struggle with, and they're brilliant for leather.

One useful bonus: because they're stitched rather than stuck, you can unpick and reuse them. That matters if you hire out costumes, alter garments between seasons, or like to rework a design.

Quick point of clarification, because these two get confused. Sew on stones are drilled glass stones you stitch directly to fabric. Metal settings are a separate product, a claw or rim mount that clamps around a stone and then attaches to the garment. Both are secure, but they're not the same thing.

Hotfix vs non hotfix at a glance

Which rhinestones suit your fabric?

This is the question that matters most, so here's a fabric-by-fabric guide.

Whichever route you take, test on a scrap or an inside seam before you commit to the main design. Fabric compositions vary hugely between garments, even when the label looks familiar.

Choosing the right rhinestone size for clothing

Rhinestones are measured in SS, which stands for stone size. The higher the number, the bigger the stone.

For clothing, SS16 to SS30 is the most versatile range. That's SS16 (4.0mm), SS20 (5.0mm) and SS30 (6.0mm). These sizes cover larger surface areas efficiently while still looking refined on a garment, and they're the workhorses for dressmaking, dancewear and general clothing embellishment.

Here's how the wider range breaks down for garments:

• SS10 (3.0mm) to SS12 (3.2mm): fine detail, lettering, delicate outlines and gap filling

• SS16 (4.0mm) to SS30 (6.0mm): the all-rounders for dance dresses, theatre costumes, ball gowns, bridal wear and everyday clothing

• SS34 (7.0mm) and above: bold statement designs, heavy fabrics like denim, and focal points. SS34 and SS40 are especially popular on Irish dance dresses

A technique our dressmakers swear by is mixing all three of the mid-range sizes in one design. It adds texture and depth in a way a single size never quite achieves, particularly for scattered and ombre effects.

One practical note if you're going hotfix: larger stones take longer to heat through, so factor that into your timings.

Not sure what will look right on your fabric? Order a sample pack and try a few sizes before you commit to a bulk order. It's a small step that saves a lot of second-guessing.

Picking colours that work on fabric

Clear crystals and AB crystals are the most versatile choices you can make. AB stands for Aurora Borealis, an iridescent coating that throws a rainbow shimmer as the light moves. Both clear and AB pick up the colour of whatever sits underneath them, so they adapt to any garment.

Beyond that, it comes down to the effect you're after:

• Tone on tone for subtle, sophisticated sparkle that catches the light without shouting

• Contrast colours when you want the design to pop and read clearly from a distance

• Remember that stones look different on dark fabric versus light, and dramatically different under stage lighting versus daylight

If you're colour matching to a specific garment, our team offers a colour matching service, and our Preciosa and Zodiac colour charts let you compare shades properly rather than guessing from a screen.

Does rhinestone quality actually matter?

Yes, and here's what separates a good rhinestone from a disappointing one.

• Cut precision. More facets, precisely angled, means more light bouncing back at you. Sloppy cutting produces dull patches.

• Glass clarity. Cloudy glass means cheap fillers. You want clean, transparent glass with no internal haze.

• Foil backing. This is the mirrored layer on the back that reflects light back through the stone. A strong, even foil is what creates that proper shine.

• Consistency. Every stone in the pack should match. Noticeable variation within a single pack is a red flag.

There's one more factor specific to hotfix, and it's the reason hy stones sometimes fall off. The quality of the pre-applied adhesive varies between brands. Cheaper hotfix glue isn't always consistent, which is the single most common reason crystals lift after a wash or two. It's worth knowing before you buy.

We stock four brands, and each earns its place for a different job:

• Preciosa for premium performance and diamond-like brilliance. We're an authorised Preciosa Silver Partner, and their hotfix adhesive is genuinely reliable, which is why it's the standard for high-end dressmaking and costume work.

• Zodiac for excellent sparkle at a fraction of the cost, with a durable foil backing and scratch-proof coating. Our Zodiac crystals have earned over 1,500 five-star reviews for quality and performance.

• Luna for high-volume projects where you're covering a large area and budget is the priority.

• Swarovski for luxury pieces and heirloom work.

How to choose between hotfix and non hotfix

Six questions will get you to the right answer:

1. What's your fabric? Check the label. Can it take heat? This is the first and most important question, and it rules out one option straight away in a lot of cases.

2. How complex is the design? Lots of different sizes or fine detail work leans towards non hotfix.

3. Do you need speed or precision? Hotfix is fast. Non hotfix is forgiving.

4. What's your budget? Remember to count the applicator tool, not just the crystals.

5. How often will it be washed? A t-shirt you'll wear weekly is a different job from a costume worn twice a year.

6. How many garments? A one-off doesn't justify a tool. Twelve dance costumes absolutely does.

To put that into practice:

• Denim jacket you'll wear weekly: hotfix, in SS16 to SS20

• Silk blouse: non hotfix with Gem Tac, and take your time

• Competition dance dress: non hotfix with E6000+ for the intricate work, mixed sizes throughout, sew on stones for anything that must not budge

• Small logo on a cotton t-shirt: hotfix, or an iron on transfer if you're doing several

Making your rhinestones last

Getting the application right is most of the battle:

• Let glue cure fully before wearing or washing. Check the specific instructions on your adhesive, and resist the temptation to rush it.

• Wash inside out so the stones aren't rubbing against the drum.

• Hand wash where you can, or use a cool, gentle cycle.

• Never tumble dry. The heat and tumbling action is the fastest way to lose stones.

• Don't iron over the design. Iron around it, or turn the garment inside out and press from the back.

• Store flat or hung rather than folded across the embellishment.

Both hotfix and non hotfix rhinestones offer fantastic ways to customise clothing, and neither is universally better than the other. If you need a quick, efficient method for durable fabrics, hotfix is the ideal choice. If you're working with delicate materials or need more precision in your design, non hotfix gives you greater flexibility and control. And when a stone absolutely has to stay put, sew on stones will never let you down.

Whichever route suits your project, we've got a rhinestone for every fabric and every budget, from premium Preciosa crystals to excellent value Zodiac and budget-friendly Luna.

Need help choosing? Our friendly team is always happy to help, and we can send you small samples to try before you commit to a full order. Just drop us a message and we'll point you in the right direction.

FAQs

What rhinestones do you use on fabric clothes? 

Glass flatback rhinestones are the best choice for clothing. Use hotfix flatbacks on heat-resistant fabrics like cotton, denim and polyester, and non hotfix flatbacks with a flexible fabric glue on delicate, sheer or stretchy fabrics. For heavy fabrics and performance wear, sew on stones give you the most secure hold.

How do you permanently put rhinestones on clothes?

Permanence comes down to four things. Choose the right method for your fabric, apply it correctly, let it cure or cool fully, and wash the garment gently. For hotfix, that means heating long enough for the glue to melt properly into the fibres. For non hotfix, it means using a permanent flexible adhesive like Gem Tac or E6000+ and allowing full drying time before wear. Sew on stones are the most permanent option of all.

What are high quality rhinestones? 

High quality rhinestones are made from glass rather than acrylic or resin, cut with precise symmetrical facets, and finished with a strong even foil backing that reflects light back through the stone. They should be clear rather than cloudy, and every stone in the pack should match. On hotfix specifically, a consistent, reliable adhesive backing is a key quality marker.

What kind of rhinestones sparkle the most? 

Glass rhinestones with a high facet count and a quality foil backing sparkle the most, because the cut geometry and the mirrored backing work together to maximise light return. AB coated crystals add an iridescent rainbow shimmer on top of that. Acrylic and resin stones cannot match glass for brilliance at any price.

What is the difference between hotfix and non hotfix rhinestones? 

Hotfix rhinestones have heat-activated glue pre-applied to the back and are attached using an applicator wand, heat press or iron. Non hotfix rhinestones have a smooth foiled back with no adhesive, so you apply them with a separate glue. You can tell them apart by the backing: hotfix looks rough and darker, non hotfix looks smooth and shiny.

Are hotfix rhinestones better than glue? 

Neither is better overall, they suit different jobs. Hotfix is faster on large designs and gives a cleaner finish with no glue seepage. Glue is more versatile, works on delicate fabrics that heat would damage, and lets you adjust placement before it sets. Your fabric usually makes the decision for you.

Can you wash clothes with rhinestones on them? 

Yes, provided the stones were applied correctly. Wash the garment inside out on a cool, gentle cycle, or by hand if you can. Never tumble dry, and let glued stones cure completely before their first wash.

Can you use hotfix rhinestones on polyester? 

Usually yes, as most polyester handles hotfix application well. That said, polyester blends vary a lot, so test on an inside seam or a scrap first to make sure the fabric doesn't scorch or shine at the temperature you're using.

Can you use hotfix rhinestones on leather?

It isn't recommended. Natural leather has oils within it that stop the hotfix adhesive bonding properly, so stones tend to lift. Use non hotfix crystals with a leather-suitable glue, or sew on stones for the most secure result.

Do you need a special tool for hotfix rhinestones? 

A hotfix applicator wand makes the job far easier and gives more consistent results, particularly on individual stones. You can use a household iron with the steam turned off, especially for rhinestone transfers where the whole design goes on at once.

Can you use an iron instead of a hotfix applicator? 

Yes, with the steam switched off. An iron works well for transfers and larger areas, but it's less precise for individual stones. Place a piece of baking parchment or a pressing cloth between the iron and the design to protect both the fabric and the stones.

What size rhinestones are best for clothing? 

SS16 (4.0mm) to SS30 (6.0mm) is the most versatile range for clothing. Go smaller, around SS10 to SS12, for fine detail and lettering. Go larger, SS34 and above, for bold statement designs and heavy fabrics like denim. Mixing sizes within a design adds texture and depth.

Which glue is best for sticking rhinestones to fabric? 

Gem Tac is an excellent all-rounder for fabric and dries crystal clear, so any small seepage won't show. E6000+ is our recommendation for dancewear and anything that moves a lot, because it's durable and stays flexible once dry. Avoid rigid craft glues, which crack as the fabric flexes.

How do you tell if a rhinestone is hotfix or non hotfix? 

Look at the back. Hotfix rhinestones have a rough, usually darker textured backing, which is the layer of dried adhesive. Non hotfix rhinestones have a smooth, shiny foil back with nothing on top of it.

Why do my rhinestones keep falling off? 

Usually one of four reasons. The wrong method for the fabric, not enough heat or dwell time on hotfix, the wrong glue on non hotfix, or washing before the adhesive had fully cured. Cheaper hotfix crystals with inconsistent adhesive backing are another common culprit.